The trials, tribulations and elations of a girl surfer
I recently read Never too late: A welcome to those who learn to surf as adults and it made me think.
The thing about coming to surfing later in life (I started at age 26) is that you can’t care what people think of how you look. Because the fact is, you will look absolutely ridiculous… and for a long time.
There is, unfortunately, just no way around this. Sometimes you just have to swallow the ego and go for it. Continue reading “Swallowing the ego (and a whole lot of water!)”
Last weekend, like any other day recently, I checked the surf report – brilliant it says 2-3 feet and glassy (a beginners heaven), jumped in my rustbucket and headed to the beach with my trusty board in tow. At the beach, the excitement in the air was palpable. Something was wrong. The type of surf I like is fundamentally different from what experienced surfers froth at and so if these surfers were frothing, I was going to be struggling. And frothing they were. Continue reading “The Cowabunga look”