Swallowing the ego - www.girlgonesurfing.com
motivation, surfing

Swallowing the ego (and a whole lot of water!)

I recently read Never too late: A welcome to those who learn to surf as adults and it made me think.

The thing about coming to surfing later in life (I started at age 26) is that you can’t care what people think of how you look. Because the fact is, you will look absolutely ridiculous… and for a long time.

There is, unfortunately, just no way around this. Sometimes you just have to swallow the ego and go for it. Continue reading “Swallowing the ego (and a whole lot of water!)”

motivation, surfing

How surfing helped me to score my dream job

If you’ve read my first post (here) you will know that I hung up my proverbial shingle in order to reset, chill out in PJs all day, and basically undertake a range of fairly cliche’d activities like make raw organic kale and protein juices (which I still love), attend hot yoga sessions and develop a serious (and possibly unhealthy) obsession with surfing, all in an attempt to “find myself” (how one misplaces themselves in the first place, I do not know, but I managed it).

Tracking back through my post history, you will see that there has been a period of silence from me, and that is because I have – *sharp inhale*– started working again. Continue reading “How surfing helped me to score my dream job”

hardware & gear

Your first surfboard – some double entendres to remember!

I always think learning from someone who is just a few steps ahead of you is useful because the advice they impart is often the most accessible and immediately relevant, so I wrote this post to pass on my “first board” experience.

Bear with my double entendres below!

1. Big and thick is always better

More experienced surfers often misjudge (or forget) how difficult the mere act of standing up on a board, or catching a wave, can be for a beginner. Continue reading “Your first surfboard – some double entendres to remember!”

motivation, surfing

The Cowabunga look

Last weekend, like any other day recently, I checked the surf report – brilliant it says 2-3 feet and glassy (a beginners heaven), jumped in my rustbucket and headed to the beach with my trusty board in tow. At the beach, the excitement in the air was palpable. Something was wrong. The type of surf I like is fundamentally different from what experienced surfers froth at and so if these surfers were frothing, I was going to be struggling. And frothing they were. Continue reading “The Cowabunga look”