Swallowing the ego - www.girlgonesurfing.com
motivation, surfing

Swallowing the ego (and a whole lot of water!)

I recently read Never too late: A welcome to those who learn to surf as adults and it made me think.

The thing about coming to surfing later in life (I started at age 26) is that you can’t care what people think of how you look. Because the fact is, you will look absolutely ridiculous… and for a long time.

There is, unfortunately, just no way around this. Sometimes you just have to swallow the ego and go for it. Continue reading “Swallowing the ego (and a whole lot of water!)”

how to, surfing

Surfing sans buddy when you’re a beginner

Going on a career break, whilst it may not be good for the progress of my career (after all, it’s less a “break” and possibly more a fracturing), has fortunately done wonders for my surfing. I have been able to get out in the water, during the golden quiet time that is otherwise known as just after 9am on a weekday, nearly every day for the past few weeks. It has been absolute bliss.

I surf in places that are generally packed like sardines, 12 surfers all trying to surf the same break on the weekends (with varying degrees of success), but during “quiet” time I am usually one of the few surfers (sometimes only) in the ocean. There I can meditate as I stare out at the ocean, and try to figure out my life and where I am going whilst I wait for the next wave, take things as slow or fast as I wish, and generally make an idiot out of myself without half the surfing community thinking “what a kook” because happily, few are there to witness my sins against the surfboard.

Continue reading “Surfing sans buddy when you’re a beginner”