Swallowing the ego - www.girlgonesurfing.com
motivation, surfing

Swallowing the ego (and a whole lot of water!)

I recently read Never too late: A welcome to those who learn to surf as adults and it made me think.

The thing about coming to surfing later in life (I started at age 26) is that you can’t care what people think of how you look. Because the fact is, you will look absolutely ridiculous… and for a long time.

There is, unfortunately, just no way around this. Sometimes you just have to swallow the ego and go for it. Continue reading “Swallowing the ego (and a whole lot of water!)”

motivation, surfing

How surfing helped me to score my dream job

If you’ve read my first post (here) you will know that I hung up my proverbial shingle in order to reset, chill out in PJs all day, and basically undertake a range of fairly cliche’d activities like make raw organic kale and protein juices (which I still love), attend hot yoga sessions and develop a serious (and possibly unhealthy) obsession with surfing, all in an attempt to “find myself” (how one misplaces themselves in the first place, I do not know, but I managed it).

Tracking back through my post history, you will see that there has been a period of silence from me, and that is because I have – *sharp inhale*– started working again. Continue reading “How surfing helped me to score my dream job”

motivation, surfing

The Cowabunga look

Last weekend, like any other day recently, I checked the surf report – brilliant it says 2-3 feet and glassy (a beginners heaven), jumped in my rustbucket and headed to the beach with my trusty board in tow. At the beach, the excitement in the air was palpable. Something was wrong. The type of surf I like is fundamentally different from what experienced surfers froth at and so if these surfers were frothing, I was going to be struggling. And frothing they were. Continue reading “The Cowabunga look”

how to, surfing

Surfing sans buddy when you’re a beginner

Going on a career break, whilst it may not be good for the progress of my career (after all, it’s less a “break” and possibly more a fracturing), has fortunately done wonders for my surfing. I have been able to get out in the water, during the golden quiet time that is otherwise known as just after 9am on a weekday, nearly every day for the past few weeks. It has been absolute bliss.

I surf in places that are generally packed like sardines, 12 surfers all trying to surf the same break on the weekends (with varying degrees of success), but during “quiet” time I am usually one of the few surfers (sometimes only) in the ocean. There I can meditate as I stare out at the ocean, and try to figure out my life and where I am going whilst I wait for the next wave, take things as slow or fast as I wish, and generally make an idiot out of myself without half the surfing community thinking “what a kook” because happily, few are there to witness my sins against the surfboard.

Continue reading “Surfing sans buddy when you’re a beginner”

motivation, surfing

Why am I still surfing?

You might be wondering why my first blog post isn’t “Why I started surfing”.

That’s because anyone can start surfing. Its not hard to imagine why you would take it up (and I am talking about latecomers to the sport here, like myself – the “late bloomers” as it were). After all, there is usually the siren call of the sea, the warm sun beating down on tanned skin, that salty haze one sniff of which makes you feel alive…and happy about it, not to mention the men and women who partake in the activity typically look like bronzed gods and goddesses, toned and fit. You look at them, and say, “I want what she’s (or he’s) having!”

What is harder is keeping it up.

Continue reading “Why am I still surfing?”